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Shoreline

Shoreline

When waves approach shore and "feel the bottom", water piles up and breakers form. This process proves that a shoreline is not static.  Primarily these waves, breaking at an angle to the shoreline, are what generate a long shore current that parallels the shore.  The long shore current not only moves water in the surf zone, it also moves sediment parallel to the shoreline.  Long shore current is a function of the angle of wave approach.  For example, if the waves approach the shoreline from the south, long shore current moves from south to north (as shown in the figure below).

Long shore current in the surf zone moves parallel to shoreline. As shown here, the direction of the current can be determined by observing the direction of incoming waves.

Although, long shore current and the resulting transport of sediment is only one of the dynamic processes that constantly alter the shoreline.  As waves repeatedly hit the shore, water moves onto the beach and then retreats in a continuous cycle.  However, the waves are not all that moves on the shoreline.  In fact, the sediment on the shore is also always on the

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